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Wakayama - Susami

Driving through the gorgeous ocean scenery of the Kii Peninsula

a rocky cliff next to the water

The Kii Peninsula is the largest in Japan. From anywhere along its dynamic coastline, the horizon extends far out into the Pacific Ocean—it’s the ideal area for a road trip. Although the scenery that fills the car windows changes dramatically throughout the day as one scene seamlessly blends into the next. This will be a two-day trip defined by extraordinary scenery, bracing sea breezes, and the taste of local flavors.

Landscapes and culture shaped by the ocean

a room with a couch and chairs

You’ve selected the perfect place to serve as your base over the course of this trip: the Fairfield by Marriott Wakayama Kumano Kodo Susami. It overlooks the ocean, providing a perfect view of the intricate ria formations along the coast.

07:30 Shin-Osaka Train Station

10:00 Shirahama Beach

11:00 Torike Cave

12:30 Lunch at Bush

14:00 Ebi to Kani no Suizokukan

17:00 Dinner at Sokai

18:15 Check into Fairfield by Marriott Wakayama Kumano Kodo Susami

  • Day 1 Total Distance: 209.32km

  • Day 1 Total Travel Time: About 4 hours 5 minutes

a rocky beach with a boat in the distance

You decide to spend your first day traveling south through Kii Peninsula towards your hotel. You imagine driving by dynamic scenes of crashing waves as you make your way to a café that specializes in seafood, an aquarium with a focus on crustaceans, and other unique spots.

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Shin-Osaka Train Station07:30
Travel distance and time
160 km (100 mi.) / 140 min.
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Shirahama Beach10:00
a beach with a body of water and a hill

You take off from Osaka and head towards the beach town of Shirahama in Wakayama. The briny scent in the air and the sound of waves lift your spirit along the drive.

Torike Cave: A secret revealed only at low tide

a rock cliff with a hole in it
a rocky cliff with blue water and blue sky

A trek along coastal rock formations

You make a stop at Michi-no-Eki Shihara Kaigan. Roadside stations known as michi-no-eki are located all across Japan, offering local food, produce, crafts, and even tourism information. From here, you walk to Torike Cave, two cavernous chambers that were naturally formed through erosion. You know for a fact that the cave can only be approached during low tide—it feels like a real adventure!

a close up of a stone surface

You arrive at the cave after trekking about 30 minutes along coastal rock formations that are still a little wet from the tide, treading carefully so you don’t slip. Although you’re not allowed to enter the caves due to the risk of rockfall, you can see even from out here how the sea has over centuries shaped this beautiful work of art.

Bush: Good people and lush scenery

a building with stairs and a sign
a plate of chocolate cake and a cup of coffee

A coffee break at the edge of a promontory

On the southern coast of Kii Peninsula in the town of Misami, there is a lookout called Koibitomisaki—"Lovers’ Cape.” You hear it’s a great place to catch the sunset. Located here is Bush, a café that might make you think you’ve somehow ended up in an Italian city on the Mediterranean coast. It’s housed in what was once a more ordinary café but was renovated by the owner eight years ago.

a group of people posing for a photo

There are still local touches throughout, such as walls embedded with rocks brought up from the cliffs below and love locks left behind by various couples over the years decorating the terrace.

The café’s staff is diverse, with workers of different ages and backgrounds. They’re all very friendly, and watching them at work brings a smile to your face. You order a caramel macchiato—which arrives with beautiful latte art—and a chocolate cake. A coffee break with a serving of majestic scenery was just what you needed to unwind in the middle of this long car drive.

Lunch at Bush13:45
Travel distance and time
5 km (3.1 mi.) / 15 min.
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Ebi to Kani no Suizokukan14:00
a group of islands in the water

You reluctantly bid farewell to the staff of Bush and make your way to your next destination: the area of Susami that’s right around your hotel.

Ebi to Kani no Suizokukan: An aquarium for crustacean lovers

a group of jellyfish in water
a shark swimming in a tank

Interacting with animals near a michi-no-eki

You still have some time until check-in, so you decide to explore the Ebi to Kani no Suizokukan. This aquarium, just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, features over 200 crustaceans, primarily shrimps and crabs. Fans of shellfish are in for a real treat.

a crab in a tank

The aquarium is located right across the road from another roadside station, Michi-no-Eki Susami. From its parking lot, you can see penguins joyfully swimming in the pool inside the aquarium’s outdoor enclosure. It’s all very charmingly casual.

In fact, the aquarium even has a petting area where you can touch crabs—and even sharks! You decide to give the shark a pet; its skin is rougher than you were expecting.

Sokai: Delicious local flavors, served with ocean views

a plate of fried fish and shrimp
a view of the ocean from a window

Juicy black prawn katsu and stunning vistas

You’ve enjoyed your time interacting with various sea creatures, but you’re starting to feel hungry. You decide to walk over to Sokai, a restaurant located inside the michi-no-eki. It offers a wide selection of dishes, with several special items made with fresh local seafood. Picture windows provide a panoramic view of Esuzaki Island and the Pacific Ocean.

a room with tables and chairs

After that long drive, you feel like something filling, so you order the seafood katsu set meal. The meal comes with tuna and tiger prawn katsu, as well as minced tuna cutlets. Each piece is juicy and fills your mouth with its rich flavors.

Sunsets and hot spring baths at Fairfield by Marriott Wakayama Kumano Kodo Susami

a room with a large window and a table and chairs
a room with a table and chairs by a window

Catching the sunset before a relaxing soak

Now that you’re nice and full, you decide to check into the Fairfield by Marriott Wakayama Kumano Kodo Susami. As you’re standing at the front desk, a member of the hotel’s staff kindly informs you that you’ve arrived just in time to catch the sunset, either from your room or the Lobby Lounge. You decide to head to the Lobby Lounge, and you’re greeted with the beautiful sight of the sun disappearing into the sea. You remind yourself to thank that staff member later.

a pool with a view of the ocean and mountains in the background

There’s a reason you decided to eat dinner before checking in. There’s a hot spring bathing facility, Nozomi no Yu, located one floor below the hotel, which you can access directly from the guest room floor elevators. It includes an outdoor bath that opens up to the Pacific Ocean. As you soak in the hot spring waters while feeling the sea breeze on your skin, you feel your fatigue slowly draining away.